MERLIN EVANS
THE WORLDS LONGEST WALK
SOUTH AMERICA
"Clouds tear over their tops at impossible speed, but inside the wind plays through my heartstrings."
– Gregory Crouch
Prepping for a South American Mega-Walk
Walking the length of South America solo without speaking Spanish is a formidable challenge that demands serious preparation. The journey can span 7,000 to 9,000 km, taking you through diverse and often extreme environments—jungles, deserts, high mountains, and remote rural areas. Physically, it requires endurance, navigation skills, and the ability to cope with changing climates and terrains.
The language barrier, however, significantly increases the difficulty. Spanish is the dominant language in nearly all South American countries (except Brazil), and not speaking it can complicate basic tasks like buying food, asking for directions, or handling emergencies. Communication issues may also hinder access to up-to-date safety information, making it harder to avoid dangerous areas. Other challenges include securing visas, border crossings, potential health risks, and limited access to services in remote regions. Translation apps can help, but they’re unreliable without internet. Learning basic Spanish, researching local customs, and planning flexible, safer routes can mitigate some risks. Ultimately, while not impossible, this journey is best suited for experienced, highly self-sufficient travelers. Without some knowledge of Spanish, it becomes significantly riskier, more isolating, and far less enjoyable. Preparation, adaptability, and cultural respect are essential for anyone attempting such an ambitious solo trek.
Merlin's Preparation
So, how prepared was Merlin for this epic leg of the journey?
- Self-sufficiency skills? Check.
- Flexibility? Double check.
- Spanish? …Well, let’s just say that skill was still buffering (1%.......).
Exactly how much Spanish did Merlin know when he boarded that flight from Portugal to Argentina? Thanks to some time spent in Spain, he had a few basics under his belt—hola, gracias, ¿dónde está el baño?—but as it turns out, South American Spanish and Castilian Spanish are not exactly twins. More like cousins who grew up on different continents with very different slang and accents.
In short: Merlin was back at square one. Did that stop him? Not a chance.
Armed with his buggy, a stack of maps, and a laser-like sense of purpose, Merlin hit the ground (and the road) running. On October 8th, 2023, he set off from Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, ready to take on South America—language gaps and all and walked straight into howling winds, snow and empty roads.
HOW MANY HAVE WALKED THE LENGTH OF SOUTH AMERICA?
Walking the entire length of South America is a rare and remarkable achievement—but tracking exactly how many people have completed it is surprisingly difficult.
One reason is that there's no single defined route. Adventurers may begin in the southern tip of Argentina or Chile and end anywhere from Colombia to Venezuela, choosing vastly different paths through mountains, jungles, coastlines, or highways. Some stick to roads like the Pan-American Highway, while others forge wilderness trails or mix walking with paddling or biking.
Additionally, many treks are done independently, without media coverage or formal records, and may not be widely documented (like Merlin). Some walkers go completely off-grid, while others might share their journey in blogs or social media posts that are later lost or inactive.
This lack of central tracking makes it nearly impossible to compile an official count. Still, a few individuals—like George Meegan, Bethany Hughes and Lauren Reed (Her Odyssey), and Freya Hoffmeister—have become well-known for their extraordinary efforts. Their journeys underscore just how physically, mentally, and logistically challenging such a crossing is, and why those who attempt it join a very small, determined club of explorers.
THE TIMELINE
So, how long did it take Merlin to walk the length of South America?
424 days and 10,929km. This about 15,239,606 steps and 598,963 kcal.
But don’t worry, that wasn’t non-stop trudging! He wisely included rest days, mini-breaks, detours to explore hidden gems, and time to soak up the local culture (and probably the occasional hammock). After all, it’s not just about the miles—it’s about the moments along the way.
| Country | Started | Completed |
|---|---|---|
| Argentina (Patagonia) | 08th October 2023 | 18th October 2023 |
| Chile (Patagonia) | 18th October 2023 | 24th October 2023 |
| Argentina (Mainland) | 24th October 2023 | 03rd April 2024 |
| Chile (Mainland) | 04th April 2024 | 02nd May 2024 |
| Peru | 03rd May 2024 | 30th July 2024 |
| Ecuador | 31st July 2024 | 13th September 2024 |
| Colombia | 14th September 2024 | 05th December 2024 |
ARGENTINA
Upon arriving in Ushuaia—the southernmost city in the world—Merlin set up base at @anum hostel, where his extraordinary journey to date left staff and fellow travelers stunned. Determined to venture into the remote wilds of Tierra del Fuego, he was met with enthusiastic support from all around him. This rugged region straddles the Chilean-Argentine border, and though the expedition began with optimism, it quickly turned into a relentless test of endurance.
Fierce winds exceeding 50 miles per hour swept the open plains, transforming simple tasks like eating, walking, or pitching a tent into exhausting battles. For the first six weeks, temperatures plummeted below zero every night, pushing Merlin’s mental and physical resilience to the limit. The landscape, blanketed in grey skies and driven snow, offered few signs of life. For stretches of nearly 3,000 kilometers, he often found himself starting and ending the day in the middle of nowhere—caught between towns, stuck in a repetitive, surreal limbo that felt more like a simulation than reality.
Despite the brutal environment, a stark contrast emerged: unexpected moments of warmth and humanity. Locals, no strangers to the hardships of the region, extended generous help wherever possible. On particularly harsh nights, Merlin would try to find shelter in abandoned buildings—cold, empty places that nonetheless offered protection. In one of the world's most unforgiving corners, he discovered a powerful truth: even in desolation, kindness endures.
While rummaging through a rare roadside bin, Merlin was approached by a large, bearded man who introduced himself as "El Pela." In no time, El Pela was snapping photos and sharing Merlin’s story with his biker community across Argentina, rallying support for him wherever he might travel. Merlin assumed it was a one-off gesture—kind, but fleeting. He couldn’t have been more mistaken.
Later that very day, after a punishing stint on the road, a stranger pulled up, handed Merlin a bag of food and a bottle of Sprite, and drove off without a word. Then came René, who stopped his truck to offer water, then gloves to fight the biting cold. Another driver, Leandro, turned his car around just to hand over ham and cheese sandwiches. These spontaneous acts of kindness became so frequent that Merlin eventually had to start turning some down.
One evening, while attempting to shortcut a long detour, Merlin found a dirt road blocked. Nearby, at a small police checkpoint, officers Hector and Pablo invited him in. They shared their maté and dried meat. They then helped Merlin lift his buggy over the barriers, wished him luck, and sent him on his way.
These moments weren’t just helpful—they were a powerful reminder of the deep generosity and solidarity that can be found in even the most remote corners of the world.
Due to extreme heat, Merlin took a well-earned break in Buenos Aires, resting while family travelled across the world for an emotional reunion. After recharging, he completed the Argentine leg of his journey— taking just shy of six months. He walked 4,853 km and 6.2 million steps.
CHILE
Volcanoes, Mummies, and a Desert Ginger on the Move.
Chile is a land of extremes—4,000km of jaw-dropping landscapes squeezed between the Pacific and the Andes. From the bone-dry Atacama in the north to the icy drama of Patagonia in the south, it’s a place where you can hike volcanoes, stargaze like an astronomer, and stumble upon thousand-year-old geoglyphs all before lunch.
Merlin entered Chile at a dizzying 4,500 metres, stepping into the Altiplano—a high-altitude moonscape sculpted by wind and volcanoes. The light shifted constantly, turning the desert into a living painting. Sleeping was tricky (especially without a decent sleeping bag), but the views? Worth every shiver. The Milky Way stretches across the sky like a glowing river, constellations pop with razor-sharp clarity, and even distant planets and nebulae become visible to the naked eye. In the Atacama, nightfall isn’t the end of the day—it’s the beginning of a cosmic journey.
He crossed 850km in just over a month, battling altitude and even witnessing rain in the Atacama, where drops are rarer than buses. By day, he walked among ancient geoglyphs and Victorian cemeteries; by night, he ditched the tent and slept under the clearest skies on Earth, lost in the celestial theatre.
Along the way he met stoic lithium miners, swapped high-fives with curious tourists, and discovered the lands of the Chinchorro people, creators of the world’s oldest known mummies—yes, even older than the Egyptians.
Reaching the Pacific in Arica wasn’t just a map tick. After months inland, it was a salty, sunlit reminder of how far he’d come—from the Atlantic, through Patagonia, and across a desert full of surprises.
PERU
Coastal Cultures, Ancient Civilisations, and the Perils of the Lentil.
Peru is a land of breathtaking contrasts—where ancient civilizations, dramatic landscapes, and vibrant cultures converge. From the towering peaks of the Andes to the lush depths of the Amazon rainforest, and the vast coastal deserts in between, it offers an extraordinary variety of environments and experiences. It was once the heart of the mighty Inca Empire, and remnants of this civilisation still captivate visitors, most famously at Machu Picchu. But Peru’s history stretches far beyond the Inca & Paddington Bear, with a rich tapestry of cultures such as the Nazca, Moche, and Chavín. Today, its colourful festivals, diverse cuisine, and warm, resilient people make it a truly unforgettable destination.
Over the course of a month and a half, Merlin Evans travelled the length of Peru’s desert coastline, a narrow, arid strip wedged between the Pacific Ocean and the rising Andes. While the landscape remained muted under a veil of autumn cloud, the warmth and generosity of the local people added colour to the journey. During the first few weeks, Merlin passed through numerous small fishing villages, where he unexpectedly reconciled with an old adversary—seafood. Long wary of its smell and appearance, he found his views transformed after observing local fishermen hand their fresh catch directly to women running tiny beachside kitchens. Meals prepared with care and heritage challenged his biases and opened the door to a new culinary appreciation.
Progress along the coast was steady—too steady, perhaps. That changed abruptly with a bout of food poisoning.
What began as one episode of fever and intestinal pain soon repeated itself. Initially blaming contaminated water, Merlin later discovered the real culprit: undercooked lentils. Though previously a dietary staple, in this case, improperly prepared legumes triggered what experts politely term “extreme digestive distress.” The experience led to an arduous, three-day march to the nearest town while battling fatigue and discomfort—a stark reminder of how nutrition and food safety can dramatically affect endurance travel.
As he recovered, Merlin made time to explore Nazca, home to the world-famous Nazca Lines—a series of massive geoglyphs etched into the desert over 1,000 years ago. These mysterious figures, visible only from the air, remain one of Peru’s most iconic archaeological wonders. His exploration didn’t stop there; he continued on a self-guided museum tour up the coast toward Lima, immersing himself in the history of pre-Incan civilisations such as the Moche, Paracas, and Chavín—cultures often overshadowed by the Inca Empire in popular narratives.
Originally intending to spend four days in Lima, Merlin extended his stay to a week, allowing time to recover and reflect. The next stage of his journey would take him into the Andes, a mountainous passage that would continue north through Peru and eventually into Colombia—marking a dramatic shift from coastal deserts to high-altitude challenges ahead.
He completed Peru in 89 days covering 2,606 km that is 3,633,856 steps.....which would be 142,822 kcal!
ECUADOR
Jungles never again!
Merlin Evans’s time in Ecuador was an intense immersion into one of the most ecologically and culturally diverse countries on Earth. What began in the Andean cloud forests and dry valleys near Vilcabamba quickly turned into an off-the-cuff decision that defined his Ecuadorian experience: trading the uphill grind of the mountains for the sweltering jungles of the Amazon.
His route took him into Ecuador’s Amazonian provinces, where he trekked through dense rainforests, endured 35°C heat with 80% humidity, and camped in challenging conditions. Every inch of the jungle buzzed with life—ants in his tent, birds cackling nearby, and insects creating a soundtrack louder than a stadium crowd. Despite the physical discomfort and days without showers, Merlin was continuously awestruck by the region’s biodiversity. While passing through Podocarpus National Park, he marvelled at a region smaller than London yet home to over 1,600 species of birds, many of them found nowhere else on Earth.
He described the Amazon as "Mother Nature at her most fierce and flamboyant", filled with creatures and plant life so extraordinary they had to be seen to be believed. The sensory overload was unforgettable—though not without consequences. A combination of heat, humidity, and difficult camping left Merlin exhausted, and local wildlife seemed eager to explore his gear, if not his nostrils.
Cultural encounters were equally vivid. While passing through several Shuar communities—an Indigenous group native to the Ecuadorian Amazon—he found himself unintentionally the centre of a rumour that he was stealing children. After a few tense interactions and a search of his belongings, things were cleared up. Not long after, other Shuar families welcomed him sharing stories, food, and a glimpse into their rich cultural history. Despite language barriers, mutual respect and laughter carried conversations.
The final stretch of Ecuador saw Merlin walking along the Río Napo, resting in the city of Tena, and continuing toward Coca. Along the way, he was invited into a Kichwa community, where he met Jordi and Ben, two soldiers from Ecuador’s elite IWIAS jungle commando unit. The unit, composed of Indigenous soldiers trained in both ancestral survival techniques and modern warfare, patrols the jungle on 21-day missions. Merlin was struck by the contrast between their intense duty and their calm, generous hospitality.
One of the highlights of this leg came at Grand Selva Lodge, where he was hosted by the lodge owners and the University of Bonn’s biology department. There, Merlin observed a late-night field study on bats, guided by passionate researchers who graciously included him in their work and answered his many questions—entirely in English.
Though the journey through Ecuador totalled over 1,000 gruelling kilometres, Merlin found himself deeply humbled by the Amazon’s biodiversity and the generosity of its people. He crossed the Equator almost without noticing, too wrapped in daily discovery and reflection to mark the milestone at the time.
Reflecting on the experience, Merlin admits he didn’t always enjoy it in the moment—"The Equator is no place for a pasty Englishman to play silly buggers," he writes—but the discomfort has already given way to deep admiration and lasting memories.
COLOMBIA
From Jungle Trails to Coffee Towns – A Journey Through Resilience and Rhythm. 1,595km of pure vibes.
Merlin Evans crossed into Colombia’s southern Putumayo province, arriving in the lively town of La Hormiga, where the energy of the streets instantly set a vibrant tone for his journey across the country. Colombia, he would soon discover, was a nation of contrasts and connections, full of unexpected generosity, striking natural beauty, and deep-rooted resilience.
On just his second night, Merlin was caught in one of the region’s heavy tropical downpours. A family running a riverside restaurant and bar offered him a dry place to camp. That evening, over drinks of aguardiente—the local aniseed spirit—he found himself surrounded by local youth eager to share stories.
Their conversations revealed the complex history of the area, once deeply affected by conflict, symbolised poignantly by a statue made of exploded canister bombs beside the bar. It was a powerful reminder of Colombia’s turbulent past—and the warmth and hope of a generation looking forward.
Over the next two weeks, Merlin’s path took him from humid lowlands into drier Andean foothills, and back down into Colombia’s lush pasture lands. The landscape was dominated by endless mountains, dotted with colourful churches, colonial plazas, and towns where smiles were freely given. Colombia’s reputation for hospitality held true in every village, where strangers often became friends over coffee or conversation.
In Neiva, capital of the Huila department, Merlin was briefly grounded—courtesy of a dog bite that earned him several rabies vaccinations. Thankfully, he was well enough to explore the city’s thriving café culture, enjoying what he jokingly dubbed "the best coffee of my life" several times daily. Surrounded by the heartland of Colombia’s coffee industry, caffeine-fueled heart palpitations became a part of the routine.
The route led him through the surreal beauty of the Tatacoa Desert, a dry forest famed for its rock formations and starry skies. The extreme heat made walking challenging, but the views were unforgettable. Continuing north, he reached the colonial town of La Honda, where a major shift occurred—Merlin retired Jr., his trusty cart, entrusting it to a group of local farmers. In more connected areas, where towns were no longer days apart, a backpack became his new travel companion.
A spontaneous detour to Medellín turned from a one-week rest into a three-week immersion. Once a city synonymous with violence, today Medellín is a model of urban innovation and cultural reinvention. With its cable cars, modern art, thriving nightlife, and infectious energy (yes, people dance outside the metro), it captured Merlin’s heart and curiosity. He later described it as one of the most vibrant and welcoming cities of his journey.
As he moved into Colombia’s vast eastern wetlands, the walking became a mental and physical endurance test. The oppressive heat and humidity were relentless, but so were the encounters with Colombia’s rich wildlife: caymans, capybaras (dog-sized water rats), and a diverse array of long-legged wading birds. Snake warnings were frequent, adding an edge of caution to each step.
In Bucaramanga, Merlin met Christian, a hostel owner and volunteer English teacher. Invited to a local school in one of the city’s poorest districts, Merlin found himself leading an after-school session for children from disadvantaged backgrounds. With no teaching experience and a racing heart, he stepped into the classroom—only to be met by excitement, laughter, and wide-eyed curiosity. For many of the students, he was the first European they had ever met, and the experience was both humbling and unforgettable.
The final stretch took him through palm plantations and banana fields, each kilometre a slow, sweaty triumph. Covered in heat rashes, battered by the elements, and running on fumes, he finally reached the Caribbean coast—a place symbolic of endurance, transformation, and arrival.
Colombia had tested every part of him—physically, mentally, and emotionally—but it also offered moments of awe, human connection, and celebration. It was a country that challenged him to dig deeper and, in doing so, rewarded him with one of the most dynamic and meaningful chapters of his expedition.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Walking the length of South America is no small feat—and for Merlin, it was a journey marked by blistering deserts, jungle downpours, altitude sickness, and the relentless unknown. Yet through each challenge, he persevered with quiet compassion, unshakable mental grit, and the open-hearted support of locals who shared food, stories, shelter, and smiles. From Patagonia’s icy winds to the sweltering Amazon, his resilience and humility carried him forward, step by step. Completing this 10,929 km odyssey on foot is not just a physical achievement—it’s a testament to human connection, endurance, and the spirit of exploration.
Yet as Merlin floated in the warm waters of the Caribbean, the moment he had imagined for the past year had arrived—but it didn’t feel the way he expected.
The initial wave of triumph quickly gave way to an unexpected mix of restlessness, confusion, and loneliness. After dedicating so much energy and emotion to the journey, the end felt strangely hollow without someone to share it with.
In that stillness, it became clear: the real reward had been the journey itself—the people, places, and lessons along the way. Reaching the finish wasn’t a crescendo, but a quiet goodbye to the most transformative chapter of his life.
